Have you Ever Woken Up Wondering Where You Are? .....Escape to Esdale Loft

Have you ever woken up wondering where you are?

The Bright Side Of The Moon… and The (Dark) Psychology of Art...Escape to Esdale Loft, an Artists Residence… Sanctuary for Art.

This blog has been re-implemented from the 2018 Phase One site. It reports in detail about my visit to Portimaô, Portugal during September-October 2018, and in particular, talks about the art and Esdale Loft.

Above: Alameda Square …a long time ago, where Esdale Loft is situated, just off the square, Portimaô, on Portugal’s Algarve. Taken at the Museu de Portimão

As I awake, Stuart isn’t there anymore…..or Brian (Brian-Bruce, or is it Bruce-Brian? I like both names), and Martin (Solveig-don’t ask me why but perhaps the 'Hello' song has a lot to do with it), and that wonderful space above my head. The kind of space that fills me with inspiration, light and a sheer weightlessness of mind….

Above: The moon, taken at the Museu de Portimão where I also got to experience the old sardinha cannery (sardines). The significance of the moon here related to the importance of timing when it came to logging the wood for ship making….. ‘In the mountains & woods of the region, the men who cut down trees with saws and axes knew the influence of the phases of the moon on the quality of the wood. They would decide the best time for cutting down the trees, providing the shipyards with the wood that was more appropriate for the construction of the ships.’

“We would always cut the trees in January, by the light of the moon. That was the best time to do it” - José Gregório, sawyer in Monchique

…so, when I woke up this morning back in the UK and Stuart wasn’t there, or Bruce, and Martin I half wondered where I was.

Above: Keith Esdale's paintings

I call my favourite painting Bruce (not pictured on request of the artist), with what looks like a half mask on his head. You shall have to visit the loft to see this one for yourself. He looks like a Bruce to me, but then he also looks like a Brian, and so he has two names.

I’m embracing maximalism in all areas, and I especially did during my break, although it seems minimalism is creeping back in too as the antitode.  If the techno wrap athletic sun visor frames were back for S/S19, not in all areas it seems.  I digress.

The one I named Bruce/Brian I was drawn to. I found him mesmerising and I couldn't stop looking at him and I didn't know why (and I also didn't care).  Stuart facing the bed is 'slightly frowning man', only slightly troubled but engaged and ready to listen.  Then, there is Martin, who occupies the ground floor, seen from the mezzanine, always there like an old friend.

Transport your mind to art as I’m speaking about my painted friends who reside at Esdale Loft… my holiday companions.  Those who I said good night and good morning to and who I will miss during both my sleeping and waking hours, as they watched over me, passive, still, non-judgemental.

At first I wasn’t sure about sleeping under one of these big faces, after seeing it on Air b and b, then I thought, come on now trust the art. With regards to insomnia and art, well I suppose certain art can be soothing or disturbing, which was my initial anxiety in terms of my own problems with sleep, but this was soon placated....

….I found it a very lovely experience.

The paintings kept me company and I even named them!

I also slept extremely well, with only 3-4 bad nights of insomnia out of the 25 nights I stayed there.  I made friends with the moon.

Above: The poster I was greeted by in the street on arrival which I found funny, and my first diary entry into Esdale Loft Visitors book (it is not really a diary)

What’s in a Name…

The Loft’s namesake was born out of a wonderful thing, and the word wonderful encapsulates much of my experience during the 3 weeks spent there.  Apologies if I over-use the word.

That wonderful thing was the safe-keeping of art, a sanctuary where it could live, be enjoyed, respected and loved.  The lovely feel of the place is immediate, as if hugging you when you step through the door.

Above: On arrival -Tasca Velha Taverna, the first port of call

On my first night, several hours and beers after arriving at the little taverna next door around 3-4am, I nipped back to the loft to grab my camera, feeling I should seize more opportunities and be brave more often in life, by capturing the scene in the courtyard…..Steve sketching a portrait in constantly changing light and shadows amongst the bubble and movement of pub life.  I’m glad to have made my first captures of Steve being an artist. Steve is the owner of Esdale Loft and a long-time friend from Brighton.  As we sat chatting, he quietly sketched away a portrait of his girlfriend Concha’s brother whose birthday it was that day.  His portraiture is beautiful and seems to capture the spirit of his sitter, bringing out the best energy and light. A relaxed setting enabling this portrait creation with a few pastels.

Something else that came out of that first night and getting my camera out at the taverna (also with people I’d only just met), was that I found myself justifying the need to capture the moment, to Steve.  He made a remark about a camera being one of the most aggressive things you can do, is to pull one out and point it at someone, and this stuck with me.  Then, on Tuesday night as I read a bit more of ‘Ways of Seeing’ my holiday read (which I nearly abandoned reading after finding myself disagreeing with a lot of what John Berger says, as Steve too had done with this book), I percervered.  I found John Berger’s statements slightly arrogant, where he states as fact, that which could in fact be entirely dependent upon the person.  It was one conclusion that nearly made me put it down.

It did however on the next pages I read, talk about something quite relevant to this idea of the camera and the fact that I was photographing fine art to reproduce for my write-up.  During this point, it was night-time reading and I preceded this with an interlude…. following it up the next night.

Above Left: The shadows from the light make like a bat Right:  Legs are tired, mind is wired - legs up against the wall making new discoveries.  The walls themselves are art! 

New Perspectives...

Wed 19 Sep… As I lie with my feet up against the wall, taking in a different perspective of the Loft, the light and shadows make new works of art on the walls. 

A lot of writing came out! … I write like a painter paints!  This is when I also discovered 'Stuarts' two faces.

Not until I studied more clearly after drawing over my sketchy lines of my diagrams of the art, still not entirely happy with them, did I notice the magic in the slightly frowning man, 'Stuart'….. like all of Keith’s paintings at the loft, there is a line of distortion, or should I say a line which draws out the magic to the untrained Esdale eye.  It makes your brain work!

To begin with, I just considered the Desperate Dan/John Wayne-esque mouth as an exaggerated detail of a face with many strong lines, making up the face.  Strength being the operative word here with regards to the feel of his paintings, they seemed to give me strength.  Then, what is that finger? There, on the mouth?  No, it's not... I’ll say no more so the magic remains for you to discover. 

Maybe my eyes have grown lazy to art over the years and some will see this straight away, but this is what I love about being able to fully relax amongst the art.  Better than any art gallery, or contrived space for showing, I was at home there and that makes all the difference. To idle the mind amongst art felt good.  So good in fact that I felt relief from some of my usually debilitating symptoms of fibromyalgia.  Maybe the fact that there are less electronic devices getting in the way, no TV and more space and the freedom of getting away from it all, something was certainly working for me here.

I drew another observation regarding the Turner copy - I thought, why would anyone enjoy creating an exact copy of someone elses work?  The same study, scene, colours and style. Understandable as a student, we did the very same at school to help us understand Dali.  But wouldn’t it be a chore and a bore for a creative? Then it clicked that this was someone’s job as a painter, so it could be made more affordable for others to be able to appreciate it, way before printing machines were available to reproduce them.  Silly me, thinking painting would only be done from original ideas.  How short-sighted to think that and not be aware of this myself before.  Painting for joy, for myself, when the mood takes for me, yes, but for an artist, great works are often drawn from pain, quite literally at times.

Getting to know a painting by attempting to draw it or paint it as a rough sketch, many years on from school has helped me to understand more again and I am grateful that my own methodical approach has drawn this out.

Ways of Seeing….

With reference to the fact that I’m documenting some of the art at Esdale Loft and in doing so am reproducing the art for my own referencing in diagrams, and more importantly through the eye of a camera lens, it can all somehow lose its uniqueness where it is not experienced in the flesh as it were. And, that of the building in which it resides, which means quite simply you have to go and see it for yourself.

I would say that one can also capture uniqueness through a lens, or a painting or drawing that one cannot see through their own eyes, like the spirit of a person, as Steve does with his interpretations of people. It is all relative, but I will include the exerts from the book here anyway to draw further conclusions…

Above: a close up section of one of Keith Esdale’s paintings at the loft, ground floor

In Terms of Perspective and the Camera’s Capture

Taken from pages 18, 19, 20… Ways of Seeing by John Berger:

The invention of the camera changed the way we saw. It also changed the way in which we saw paintings painted long before the camera was invented.

Originally paintings were an integral part of the building for which they were designed. Sometimes in an early Renaissance church or chapel one has the feeling that the images on the wall are records of the building’s interior life, that together they make up the building’s memory - so much are they part of the particularity of the building.

The uniqueness of every painting was once part of the uniqueness of the place where it resided. Sometimes the painting was transportable. But it could never be seen in two places at the same time. When the camera reproduces a painting, it destroys the uniqueness of its image. As a result its meaning changes. Or, more exactly, its meaning multiplies and fragments into many meanings.

This is vividly illustrated by what happens when a painting is shown on a television screen. The painting enters each viewer’s house. There it is surrounded by their wallpaper, furniture, mementoes. It enters the atmosphere of his family. It becomes their talking point. It lends its meaning to their meaning. At the same time it enters a million other houses and, in each of them, is seen in a different context. Because of the camera, the painting now travels to the spectator rather than the spectator to the painting. In its travels, its meaning is diversified.

One might argue that all reproductions more or less distort, and that therefore the original painting is still in a sense unique.

This makes me consider Banksy’s stunt, where the work was being sold in an auction room and there shredded for all to see, becoming a talking point as it changes into a unique new form before the attendees’ very eyes.

It is also the reason why I have included close up photographs of the rest of the art at the Loft (apart from the airbrushed art, and one or two seen in the pictures), rather than document the rest of the paintings in full, which means it should not spoil it for others wanting to visit and experience the uniqueness for themselves.

Above: Stephen Risby’s painting 'Entering Extinction'

Stephen Risby... 'Messy Painter'

There are only a few of Steve’s paintings at the artists residence as Esdale Loft was born out of the safe keeping of Keith Esdales’ paintings and about celebrating others art, which I feel is such a wonderful way for a place to evolve. More about that soon.

To see one of Steve’s larger pieces I’d not seen before, at Concha’s place was a delight….its enticing depths with teal and grey-blues - charcoal and greens; then there’s a whole host of his Galapagos portraits that should be seen by the world, something he’s working on. An instagram account or exhibition calls.

ESDALE LOFT

The Loft’s running is overseen by Steve, Maria (Concha’s eldest daughter) and Concha, very much a family affair, realised with love.

Esdale Loft has opened its arms to a handful of visitors in 2018, whose entries in the guestbook have been very positive, along with a few suggestions for minor improvements here and there. I found all of the lofts little quirks charming and easily remedied, with only one suggestion for improvement which was nothing major. The addition of the airbrushed mural really makes this place one-of-a-kind. More about that later.

In 2016, the loft had been renovated with a mezzanine floor, then embellished with unique furniture and paintings to achieve a standard appealing in its homeliness and full of history and stories; from the furniture to the art works.  The beautiful story of how the loft came about, including its name lies in the fact that it is a safe-keeping house for art - a sanctuary for art.

Above: Steve & Concha on one of their favourite beaches with the doggies

One night, whilst enjoying a few drinks in the courtyard with Steve and Concha, I put a few questions to them...

5 QUESTIONS...

1. When did you acquire Esdale Loft?

2 years ago, February 2016

2. Did you refurbish it - what was it before - do you know any history about it?

It had been recently renovated - all done, just our stamp to put onto it. It was so perfect as the wall space provided just what we were looking for to hang the large paintings, and the space felt good. The location is also brilliant.

3. What pleases you most about people staying here?

Being able to provide a unique offering, after all its somebody’s home due to the artefacts it holds. It was born out of providing a sanctuary for the art, in particular, Keith Esdale’s. We needed somewhere that would house it, with a large enough expanse of wall space.

“ I dont want to have to worry about my belongings, so those who stay here will share a similar respect for art, people and things generally. It’s a unique offering in somebody’s home, an experience of that. A great location with good facilities and a place where your neighbours look out for you”

Steve continues...

“So, really what pleases me most is having people to stay who really appreciate art, music and culture and who will look after the place as its guests and respect everything to do with that”

4. How did you acquire Keith’s paintings in the first place?

They were offered as large canvasses to paint on, and being a great fan of Keith’s work I said I would never paint over them but would look after them. Then, being me I was an hour or 2 late to pick them up, by which point one or two had been removed from their supports. They have since been returned, well stitched back, so you’ll see this when you stay, they look a little deconstructed. They definitely needed stitching back in, because the edge work of his big pieces are exquisite..

5. Do you want to offer my readers any special offers?

If they contact me directly by email, quoting ‘ESDALELOFTVIP’ we can work out a special price for your readers. Simply use our contact form and Madeleine will send you my Portugese mobile so you can contact me directly. I’m rarely online.

Steve also has a place North, in Monsanto to look after, where I was lucky enough to visit back in 2009. He now has a garden there where figs, walnuts, olives and other fruits of Portugal grow, so this may be another sideline to Esdale Loft, where guests are able to sample home-made fig jams, olives, and also what awaited me, sun dried tomatoes. Delicious!

I would say that the team behind Esdale Loft, now my new ‘Portuguese family’ have every skill required to make this an all encompassing experience of what Portugal has to offer, whilst offering art and a cultured view, both old and new, UK and Portugese. Between them all, they have the knowledge and imagination to really grow this beautifully.

The idea Steve adds is to ‘advertise less to get more (from) guests’ and in a way I understand this as being quality over quantity just like my very own motto at ThriftVIP. It’s all about growing things slowly and carefully, finding the right audience who will appreciate these aspects and have an enquiring and inquisitive mind. Such is the advantage of small businesses who can offer so much more than large corporate money driven ventures.

Plus, if you want to learn the language, Clara, Concha's other daughter would be only too pleased to assist you with a few phrases in return for a few British ones. As a student studying translation she may be able to help any Chinese visitors for a nominal fee, that is if she's not travelling or singing with Miguel in The 'Gramaphobics.'  Clara very kindly agreed to step out of her comfort zone to model for me. We had a lovely few hours photographing in Portimao's Alameda Park Square, and the surrounding streets, seconds away from Esdale Loft. See the results here

I would recommend to come here either selfishly alone or as a couple, to fully appreciate and immerse in the art and vinyl selection, not to mention the myriad of tavernas and delights Portimao has to offer, only steps away.

It has been a privilege to eat, sleep, rest and generally idle amongst the art. I shall miss it and the dulcet tones from ‘Stuart’s’ expression; the passive face of Brian-Bruce-Brian.... dragon, vinyl, courtyard and all!

If you’re a light sleeper like me then you might want to bring earplugs as it can be a bubbly area in terms of passers by chatting and general daily life under the bedroom window, which on a small cobbled street can echo a little.

I was very pleased to be able to hear the pretty church bells on Sunday as preference to the usual sirens of the city which are often my wake up and bedtime chorus in Nottingham. Being away from all the electronic devices and the sheer amazing headspace of the loft, I think really helped and no TV was a welcome break. There are shops nearby where you can buy inexpensive canvases to create your own art work during your stay. Chat with Steve about any art direction you require too.

Lovely secluded courtyard, very private and the new chairs Steve bought complement the mural beautifully.

It’s been one of the most fulfilling holidays…..in many different ways.

Above: Vinyl Love, the soundtrack to my stay, I'll be back to play more!

(several of these selected and kindly loaned to me by Steve, from his personal collection. If you talk to him nicely he might do the same for you too, after all the love of music is to be shared and enjoyed, as long as it’s respected too of course).

Above: More of my raw edit 'diary entries'…see more in the flesh when you visit Esdale for yourself, and make your own mark!

Esdale Loft sits nestled among the little cobbled streets where old meets new in Portimão town.

Just off the Place de Republica, or better known as Alameda Park Square, it is the perfectly positioned base for exploration. With cafes, tavernas, shops, restaurants, convenience stores and bus stops just steps away. Exploring different beaches by bus is easy and inexpensive and this is how I travelled to Caniço, a fantastic restuarant overlooking a small beach, set into a cove. See the October 2018 Newsletter for more about other elements of my stay.

Looking for a late escape Winter break?

If you get in contact with Steve directly, he may be able to fix you a deal.

Quote ‘ESDALELOFTVIP' and just use our contact form here to ask for his Portugese mobile phone number, so you can call him direct. Steve is offline a lot of the time.

For more about Steve, click here

… or if you prefer, head over to the Air b and b site here instead for full prices and to book online.

If you visit in October, be sure to look out for the Rota Do Petisco, a heavenly food event which allows you to sample tapas dishes with a drink included, for a low price. An excellent event and well worth it for an eclectic menu sampling experience.

The Artists in Residence…

I've chosen three artists to talk about whose work resides at the loft- those who made the biggest impact on me during my stay. Those which also brought me joy during my stay I have encapsulated in a montage at the end of this blog, along with more of the Loft's ephemera.

KEITH ESDALE - The loft’s namesake, an artist Steve knows through Phoenix Arts, Brighton who now lives in Hanover. His large pieces of fine art are looked after by Esdale Loft, for safe keeping. Three of his paintings are seen in photographs at the beginning of my write-up. The questions below are those I would like to hear the answers to, although the artists’ privacy and preference is to be respected. He has wished not to be quoted or for them to be explained, which is understandable. Sometimes the mystery is a more attractve place to be when we enjoy art.

(potential) Questions to Keith:

How does it make you feel that your paintings are safely housed in a sanctuary with your namesake, where private viewings are arranged via air b and b /via Steve, in the form of house guests?

Are any of these self portraits?

Have you given titles to the paintings?

Have you visited Esdale loft yourself?

ROD HARMAN - Steve’s old art tutor who Steve said “painted like a three year old” in which he replied was “such a compliment - I’m nearly there”

I like the dynamic nature of Rod's 'work' -work being the wrong word - more like play and dance and run around. I also liked the everyday consistency his paintings gave, like a good friend, reliable, a bit messy and full of life and more, with plenty of colour; grounding and fully realised.

I was lucky enough to be able to connect with Kenton Lowe, owner and curator at the Blackshed Gallery. A friend of Rods who speaks very fondly of him:

"A wonderful man with many vices, who gives and rarely takes. He got kicked out of medical school to turn to art in his 20's. He's a real talker and isn't afraid to express his true feelings. An extremely spiritual person, (although not religious), who speaks to his god for guidance."

His exhibition with Kenton at Blackshed: ‘Skin Deep’ ran from 6 April -18 May 2019 which may well have been supported by Rod in terms of a possible appearance.

Kenton continues:

"His work is always well received and has had a massive following...

…A standing stone makes nowhere a place."

Above: I quite liked the way the artwork of one of my favourite albums, sat complimentary against Rod's art. I decided it would stay there for the duration of my stay.

Above: Close ups of Rod Harman’s paintings

REQ IAN /REQ ONE - Facebook Flickr - we connected via instagram during my stay as Ian said he’d like to come back to make more ocean studies in the clear beautiful waters of the Algarve. This freshly sprayed piece in Esdale’s courtyard encapsulates the clear Algarvian waters and immerses you in the cooling big drink of turquoise that is the sea here..... absolutely lush.

Above and below: Req’s air-brushed painted mural makes waves in Esdale’s courtyard.

I enjoyed spending some time washing the walls down to some choice reggae music during my stay.

Achieving this piece from start to completion in a matter of 4 hours, Req has evoked the feeling of immersion in nature, enveloping you in clear Algarvian waters, captured beautifully in this piece. The new chairs complement it very well too. The other piece of Req's in the Loft just oozes Brighton, even the expression on the bar girls face, seen as if through the eyes of a blurry eyed reveller. As I stood in front of it, closer to it I felt like I was there. Clever airbrushing techniques indeed.

I found quite a lot of online action about Req One, Ian, so thought I'd share some links with you here.... Req His Muse Art Republic Brighton Shoreditch Brighton Street Art Tours Hastings Mural

Esdale Loft Awaits you...

With a very big “thank you” to Steve, Concha and family for making me feel so very welcome, and to the artists who have allowed me to use photographs of their art work for the purpose of this blog. I believe Esdale Loft will have many more visitors who will understand the ethos and joy of staying at the loft, an artist’s residence.

When are you booking your stay?

I hope that when you stay there, you too will discover more and more as you look closer and become more engaged with the art there; like the 1970's girl done in a cross-stitch tapestry style, which I hadn't even realised until closer inspection. Then there was the very calming Tahitian looking painting above my head, enjoyed at night-time and during late siestas, in deep blues and yellow, a slight crackling adding to its charm and evoking for me, the Hawaiin town of Lahaina, Maui.

An eclectic mix of art to suit all sorts of tastes and to bring joy, wonder and inspiration for a brilliiant breakaway. Gathered through friends, places and rescued from the street , the art and the lofts contents are there for all to enjoy.

Above: Maria (leftt) and Steve & Concha (right) look forward to meeting you soon

Above: Friendly service at the green wine (Vinho Verde) stand…..this stuff hits the spot pretty quickly and tastes very good. It’s positioned by the harbour area where you can sit and sip for as long as you like while enjoying the fountains and statues in the changing light.

About the Area...

Portimao, pronoucned “porteymaw” means simply ‘port in hand’ as Concha explains. Famous for its sardines, best enjoyed in season, Portimão lies at Europe’s far south-western tip, close to where the Atlantic ocean and the Mediterranean come together. With some eight kilometres of magnificent sandy beaches set against a backdrop of ochre cliffs, the Algarve is embraced by sunshine, deep blue skies and crystal clear turquoise waters. Praia da Rocha is one of the Algarve’s hallmark beaches and only a short distance away from the town, along the River Arade to the marina, as the rivermouth opens into the sea.

Above: Capturing some street art on my way back from Praia Da Rocha to Potimão town

Above: The trip was complete with adventures on the Santa Bernada, where Steve and Concha joined me for a bit of a tourist day... highly recommended! Steve will go back at some point to finish the portrait of the ship's pirate.

On my last day I met a fellow surfer who lives in nearby Ferragudo who said he'd worked on the Santa Bernada ship's reconstruction. I now also have a surf contact and board fixer upper if ever I needed it... everything connects.

Above: flowers around Alameda Square

Above: I really enjoyed being out and about exploring, photographing and documentig my stay for this blog. Next time I shall spend more time idling and less behind the lens so I can idle the mind even more…until next time my Portugese family. Atè Ja.

See you again soon Portimao…. you have my heart

Madeleine xXx