Fashion Through a Lens
Ways of Seeing: Living and Working Creatively
Fashion Photography
From the fantastical, to the real and raw, fashion photography encapsulates feeling and emotion within a narrative to entice the viewer, and essentially, promote its products. It offers us an emotional connection with the clothes, and sometimes with the wearer too; as a voyeur, evoking memories, daydreams and aspirational tendencies. Different photographers interpret this in unique ways and I’ve been lucky enough to have worked with at least 4 photographers from different backgrounds over the last 4 years.
Behind the scenes: Steve Edwards shooting Miriam of Model Students for A/W
How I first got into fashion photography myself
The job I really wanted to do when I left university was to be a Fashion Stylist or Window Dresser. Styling my concepts into scenes with fantastical narratives, whether with models or in a window, by utilising my own creativity. This would’ve been my dream job. Styling and photography was the most enjoyable part of my fashion degree, where we learnt to set up the studio and take the shots, but I was never very technically minded.
I just really enjoyed creating the concepts and designing the set and narratives. I enjoyed taking the photos but was’t into the technical side so much. Not enough to do it all myself, even though I do now, it’s more a case of praying for good lighting.
Above: Samara and I had fun creating my ‘Skool Fantasy’ shoot, 2001
I sent my ideas to some of the big stores in London, amongst many other applications to various magazines and fashion companies. But there lies the catch-22 in life. Without experience, no job, without the job, no experience. Even securing a work placement for the whole of the Summer of my last year of university at a Fashion Marketing company didn’t cut it. Sleeping on my brothers Deptford flat floor at the time only just enabled me to secure my deposit for the next terms accomodation, my final year. In fashion, it was literally, you took what you could. Unfortunately, it’s also all too often, still a case of who you know not what you know most of the time.
To actually get paid for doing one of my dream (and probably fairly low paid) fashion roles, it would have meant I’d have to live in London, go to all the right parties, get to know the right people and basically go home at the end of the day or night to live in a box eating from a can of beans. I wasn’t hungry enough to do this, as tempting as a small career step up and baked beans were.
As a ‘mature’ student at 25, I felt I’d done all this before… worked more or less for free, lived in shared accommodation and struggled to keep a roof over, unable to earn more than £8000 a year for most of my life. Back in 2002, university told me that I shouldn’t accept less than £21,000 as a starting salary upon leaving. Well that was a joke. A role secured at Ted Baker in Covent Garden at the time meant I still couldn’t earn enough to live even outside of London, unless I opted for a tiny room in a shared house. I’d had enough of that already, as fun as it was at the time. And a sales assistant role was not enough to entice me to do that.
Since then I’ve done many different jobs, diversified my experience and now I’ve created my own role within fashion, finally. My own eclectic experiences are finally being put to good use. Getting paid for it will be the next step and until then it’s the same story, working towards the day I can pay myself a wage. All the skills I’ve gained and education I’ve had that hasn’t enabled me to get a decent job, is finally being utilised, by myself.
Believe me, creating a job for yourself isn’t easy, but it’s become absolutely necessary after losing most of those career years to a chronic, invisible illness. When you have a fluctuating condition, you don’t fit in with many societal shapes which is isolating and alienates you from society.
I’m not sure how it is for those who want to focus on photography as a career, but it sure sounds more linear than my path, although a lot of success stories seem to be where people fall into roles by accident.
Above: a selection of images created by myself for Thrift Generation VIP over the last 4 years
To turn any hobby into a business is challenging and when you’re creating images for others, the briefs aren’t always going to be what you would like to do, not allowing for much artistic licence or creativity. To get that work through self employment isn’t easy and also means living with constant uncertainty of payment and chasing people for money, as I learnt from being a self employed dance teacher a while ago. Being a photographer however in the field in which you’ve set your sights must be very fulfilling, as I’ve also discovered with my own fashion photography. Some of what you see on the site has been taken by me, and some by the photographers I’ve worked with.
It’s been a real pleasure to intermittently have a photographer to work with. It takes away some of the pressure and offers reassurance that the images will be (most of the time), of better quality than mine. It also allows me more freedom to style the shots. I’ve been fortunate enough to work with several photographers, all with different backgrounds and styles.
The fact that it’s been affordable is key, otherwise I would still be doing everything myself. I’ve put all of my available cash into this hobby, which is what it currently is, in the hope that one day it will become a success. Creating these concepts is what keeps me driven, and creating imagery with a fashion narrative is one of the most enjoyable parts of the creative process for ThriftVIP. I love telling stories.
It’s been a real joy to work with the amazing models at Model Students too. They have such a great work ethic and understanding of the industry and always work with me beautifully on the ideas I have for the shoots.
Diversity in Fashion
I’m looking to represent more of my customers with models of various ages and sizes, and to also represent the disabled community. I recently gave my answers in the form: All-party Parliamentary Group for Textiles and Fashion ‘Representation and inclusion in the Fashion Industry Policy Paper’ where I submitted written evidence as an individual, via Fashion Roundtable:
In the ‘Representation in the Fashion Industry Policy Paper’, Fashion Roundtable aims to map the opinions of industry insiders and consumers to understand the cause of these discrepancies and propose and assess potential solutions.
• Within the design and fashion design sub-sector in the Department for Digital, Culture, Media and Sport, people of BAME origins held only 9% of jobs in the sector,
• The Creative Industries has the lowest percentage of jobs held by people who qualify as disabled under the Equality Act 2010 at 10.1%, and in the design and designer fashion subsector it is 8.75%,
• People are still unable to identify outside ‘male’ and ‘female’ in legal documentation, and statistics for the non-binary and trans population are not included in the sector breakdown given by the DCMS.
EVIDENCE SOUGHT
As part of the research for the APPG for Textiles and Fashion’s ‘Representation and Inclusion in the Fashion Industry’, Fashion Roundtable is initiating this call for evidence to the public. Fashion Roundtable aim to understand the experiences of people who work in the fashion industry or are consumers of goods and services produced by the fashion industry in relation to access, inclusion and representation.
Evidence will be reviewed and analysed to suggest policies for improving access, inclusion and representation within the fashion industry.
If you’d like to submit your response too and have a voice, then click the link above. The deadline for submission is 21/11/19.
For now, utilising my own photography skills and liaising with other photographers in realising concepts for ThriftVIP is how I keep myself going most days. I wonder what keeps these photographers doing what they love too. It’s the one question I’ve asked the photographers I’ve worked with for this blog……
Take 4 photographers and mix them with fashion…
MoMo of Model Students shot by Benedict Cooper
BENEDICT COOPER 2016-2017— The first photographer I worked with. Ben took the main ThriftVIP images I use on the website, in black and white. I often use these for promotional purposes too and you might see them on my point of sale items such as postcards, with your order.
He was always really accommodating with his laid back approach and style, making the models feel at ease.
Ben likes to capture the humanity in his subjects, and is usually doing what he loves most of all, out and about in Nottingham and across the world, creating images through photo journalism.
What keeps you doing what you love, with photography aside from being paid?
Perhaps you can find out by following Ben’s instagram account here or see his website to answer this question for yourselves.
Above: Ben shoots Liv & Mariella of Model Students (black & white), and Amy (Model Students) & Callie (in colour) at ThriftVIPHQ
STEVE EDWARDS 2017-present - Otherwise known as an expert for photographing automobiles, especially vans, with regular features in VW Bus magazine; Steve has also turned his hand to fashion shoots over time.
I first met Steve at a pop-up event and we’ve now worked together on several occasions.
When photographing fashion for ThriftVIP, Steve embraced the shoots, using his technical expertise and professional practice to bring out the best detail in the clothes, producing some fantastic quality images, worthy of print form. It was great working with Steve on the Gothic Fairytale Shoot and I’d love to make a look book from the shots because the quality of the photographs is print worthy. I took some shots myself too, playing around with some filters on my camera which Steve was always kind enough to help me with. He even added watermarks of my logo to the images which was a special touch.
Working alongside Steve gave me the chance to experiment myself, knowing I’d still get some great quality shots if mine weren’t so good. Steve was brilliant at following my concepts and I really appreciate his advice and technical knowledge in photography. Steve also gifted me a light box so I could take some better product shots of the accessories, my first time using a light box, thanks Steve!
You can see all things Autoholic on Steve’s website here and Steve’s instagram here
You’ll find him most active on Linked In where he likes to socialise and network online as well as providing photography for networking events too.
The Gothic Fairytale story is due to release this A/W so look out for it. I hope to produce an accompanying look book and film for it too.
What keeps you doing what you love, with photography aside from being paid?
What keeps me doing what I do apart from being paid is that as a freelancer I get a huge amount of freedom, independence and control over my life.
Steve captures Miriam in ThriftVIP’s Gothic Fairytale A/W Fashion Story
I feel really lucky to have been able to work with Steve and I hope to be able to continue working with him for as long as it’s affordable. One day I’d love to be able to pay him his going rate! I am determined to make ThriftVIP a success and Steve is definitely one of those along the way who has helped me to work towards achieving that through my images for ThriftVIP.
MICHAEL MILLS -2018 - From portraits to gigs and fashion, Michael does it all. See his Master Photographer Association Highly Commended Pet Portrait image for a great example of his work.
I’ve worked alongside Michael once so far. This was an impromptu, fairly late notice shoot, where I was asked to provide wardrobe for Tanya-Louise. I jumped at the chance, and the opportunity to showcase some of the pieces I’d not yet photographed. It was fun styling Tanya, working alongside the photographer as a stylist in Michael’s studio in Alfreton, which now has a multi-purpose occupancy where he rents the studio area. Usually I’m doing everything on a shoot, taking on many roles, so it was really nice to just relax a bit, having just one role to do, without having to organise and manage other people. It was so much more relaxing, although I couldn’t help getting a few of my own experimental shots too!
Agent Extraordinaire: Michael shoots Tanya in film noir style
Girl about Town: Tanya poses in front of one of many coloured backdrops in Michaels studio
what keeps you doing what you love, with photography aside from being paid?
It’s very rare I get paid so money is definitely not an issue that keeps me going. Photography is something I’ve done for over 30 years now. There’s lots of things which keep me interested. The main goal has been to have a successful business but getting the breakthrough hasn’t happened. Without a camera I’m probably more of a quiet person. The camera helps break down barriers to talk to people. With portraits, I enjoy seeing the smiles of people, the fun we have on shoots and the final results. I enjoy the fashion side like working with you and Tanya, seeing projects coming together and seeing the images on social media or print, helping to promote everyone involved.
Now the studio has a hair salon I’m photographing the hair stylists’ designs.
Another pastime I enjoy is walking, again photography is part of this, being able to photograph the landscapes as I’m walking, sometimes just sitting, waiting for the light to change before taking the photo. Photography is a passion. I’m as happy in a studio as I am on location, whether photographing pets, family, or models. It’s valuable to me to look back on them with pleasure, or sometimes with sadness, there’s so many memories which may have been lost, to just a memory of people and events.
Michael has been busy out and about shooting at numerous gigs and festivals this year. I wish him all the best and perhaps I’ll be able to work again with him one day. You can find out more about him here
JOE PUXLEY 2019 - A rising star in fashion photography.
Back in April this year, I was fortunate enough to be able to remotely collaborate for a shoot with a few pieces for my ‘Glam Grunge’ edit.
Joe Puxley was the last photographer I worked with this year, He worked remotely so it was one of those shoots where you leave it up to the creative licence of the photographer, with just a few key factors in the brief. It’s so great when you discover someone who really gets fashion photography and who is not afraid to experiment, to great affect may I add.
Due to the nature of remote modelling, I have little control over the shots, offering a guideline only. After seeing Joe’s work on instagram, I was more than confident to allow artistic licence to him. Joe was introduced to me via Karen Dobres, one of ThriftVIP’s remote models.
Glam Grunge: Karen by Joe Puxley for ThriftVIP
Glam Grunge: Millie by Joe Puxley for ThriftVIP
Above: Posing under the Malling flyover… Such striking shots from Joe Puxley of Karen and Millie in an experimental shoot for two AW pieces for my Glam Grunge Collection. I really like the grungy feel of this and Joe has captured dramatic tension here too (thanks for being superstar models in the cold)! You both look stunning.
“Joe Puxley took pix of me the other day for ThriftVIP. He did this under the local flyover on a freezing night insisting on red eyeshadow. The boy's got real talent, so impressive (and it's great to be 3x photographers age).” Karen Dobres
Thank you Joe, Karen and Millie for coming together to do this shoot for ThriftVIP.
What a great backdrop, mesmerising!
This was so much greater than I imagined and I am extremely grateful for this opportunity to showcase such a talented young photographer and two amazing remote models.
Shortly after this shoot on a cold night in April, followed a mini Easter heatwave, all taking place during the week Extinction Rebellion were holding their mass peaceful protests all over the UK and the world. The highlight of an issue which is so important and why I am continuing to champion the circular fashion revolution.
This is a photographer who I feel will go far in the industry of fashion photography and I feel privileged to be a part of his journey towards great things. I know soon I will not be able to afford his services but he needs to be working for the big fashion houses as he has a lot of talent and conceptually is very advanced. I wish you the best of luck Joe, not that you’ll need much but I also hope we can get one more shoot in before you hit the big time!
Joe has just returned from London Fashion Week, where he was shooting some of the digital campaign for House of Holland. What a great gig to secure for such a young talent.
what keeps you doing what you love, with photography aside from being paid?
Well nearly all my projects are actually not paid, and just experiments. I'm passionate about photography for a few reasons. I love experimenting with different subjects, sets and equipment so I can reflect on what their look reminds me of, and how that makes me feel. I think the photographers I admire the most use the feelings they associate with different elements of images as photographic tools in themselves.
Another reason I love taking photos is because I find it very meditative. When I'm preparing for an exciting shoot, it's all I can focus on. I'm not thinking about college or my personal life, and that can be a valuable escape for me sometimes - those times often coincide with the creation of some of my proudest images. I think I'm a very obsessive person, and I love photography because photos have so many elements to them, with infinite combinations and an infinite level of potential greatness, I believe photography gives me infinite interest to obsess over.
Luna Joubert -Joe Puxley
You can read more about Joe Puxley here
Find him on Instagram
I can really relate to some of the answers the photographers have given and I’m very grateful to have worked with all of them. Thank you for sharing your thoughts and time for this blog.
I’ll be sharing more about the people I’ve worked with next year, including some of the remote models I’ve worked with, so look out for them soon.
Madeleine Wallner